Surfing is beholden to fluidity – from swell formation, to tides, to the actual act of riding a wave. But surfers, themselves, aren’t very fluid. In fact, we’re all pretty homogenous; we’re fiercely ...
The perfect longboard wave is a curious thing. While shorter surfboards perform best in large, fast waves, the ideal wave for longboards, which can reach 11 to 12 feet long, isn’t about power or size.
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